Guadalupe, Mexico’s Patron Saint

It is difficult to feel spiritual when every vender is trying to make a peso or two from the sacred image of La Virgen de Guadalupe. As one of the most visited Catholic shrines in 2009, I am sure that the venders are quite grateful to La Virgen, especially during the first weeks of December when more than 6 million people visit the shrine each year. The streets leading to the Basilica complex are lined with the image of La Virgen attached to everything from candles to T shirts to key chains. My favorite, which I almost bought for its epitome of gaudiness, was the icon covered in glitter, under glass that became a lamp, lit up by one large, colored Christmas bulb.

I was much more inclined to revere the patron saint of Mexico in December when I hiked to the Sanctuario in Olinalá for early mass at 5am; however, despite the seemingly commercialization of the place, masses of Mexicans and mere observers flock to the sacred area to venerate the miracle that happened more than 400 years ago.

Believers tell a variation of the story that on 9 December 1531, Juan Diego, an indigenous Christian convert, stood on the Cerro del Tepeyac, where the Capilla del Cerrito now stands, and first witnessed a beautiful lady with a blue mantle trimmed in gold. She told him to tell the bishop that he had seen the Virgin Mary and that she wanted a shrine built in her honor. The bishop did not believe him and asked that the lady provide a miracle. Juan Diego returned to the hill and had the same vision several more times. On 12 December, her fourth appearance to Juan Diego, she asked him to gather flowers. Despite being winter, there were roses for him to gather. When Juan Diego presented the roses to the bishop, the image of la Virgen de Guadalupe was miraculously emblazoned on his cloak.

And with that miracle, a cult following developed around the site of the Virgin Mary’s appearance to Juan Diego. Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, named after a Spanish manifestation of the Virgin, received credit for numerous miracles which greatly facilitated the acceptance of Catholicism by Mexicans. In 1737 la Virgen de Guadalupe was declared patron of Mexico and in the early 1900s celestial patron of Latin America and empress of the Americas.

The new Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe is a large, modern structure that lacks the classic cathedral characteristics. It was built in the 1970s beside the original Basilica.

Built in the 1700s, the original Basilica was slowing sinking with the overwhelming number of visitors and pilgrims which prompted the construction of the new Basilica. I can attest to the feeling of walking uphill as I entered the building.

The original Basilica has beautiful paintings throughout the church.

Juan Diego, who was canonized in 2002 by Pope John Paul II, is buried beside la Capilla de Indios.

On the way to the Capilla del Cerrito (Hill Chapel), I passed the Templo del Pocito, built in 1787 to commemorate the miraculous appearance of a spring where the Virgen de Guadalupe had stood. The blue tiled cupolas are quite unique.

The gardens are well maintained, after all, she did make the roses appear mid winter.

A view of the Capilla del Cerrito, where Juan Diego had his vision.

The juxtaposition of the original and modern Basilica.

Capilla del Cerrito

In the Capilla del Cerrito, the Virgen de Guadalupe is predominantly revered on the center wall. The traditional Jesus and crucifix is relegated to one of the side walls. The paintings that line the other walls depict the miracle of 1531.

I walked down the other side of the hill. The statues show the miracle of Juan Diego and the patron saint.

Many are resting and finding shade from the heat and sun.