The Music of Puebla

Last night we sat outside at one of the many eateries surrounding Puebla’s zocalo (main plaza). Three doors down a singer crooned out of tune, accompanied by a guitarist. The wait staff at our restaurant sang along to the seemly well known songs, oblivious to the discord. To serenade the patrons of our restaurant, two roaming musicians briefly competed with the amped, off key singer. Welcome to Puebla.

Puebla is home to the famous 5 de mayo battle of 1862 where confounding all expectations, Mexico defeated the French troops. Often thought of by my students, and probably many in the US, as Mexico’s Independence Day, 5 de mayo simply marks the victory of a battle, which, often forgotten, ended in the French winning the war. 5 de mayo is the name of Puebla’s main walking street that is lined with retail stores, and changes into 16 de septiembre, Mexico’s actual Independence Day, on the south side of Reforma.

5 de mayo, Puebla´s walking street

If I was not distracted by the musicians at the cafes and restaurants, I was soaking in the beauty of the colonial buildings, studded with Puebla’s famous azulejos (ceramic tiles), and numerous churches and cathedrals. The main cathedral, which boosts the highest tower in Mexico, is on the 500 peso bill if you do not make it to Puebla to see for yourself. This afternoon, with the cathedral as their back drop, the teenage praise band sang their Alleluias and Amens to a swaying crowd, arms lifted to God.

the Cathedral

Stuffed from one of Puebla’s culinary specialties, mole poblano, I sat in the city’s theater, located off the zocalo that was hosting a weekend of music, free to the public. The rock fusion group that took the stage was composed of a group of young Puebla musicians who used strings, like the cello, viola and violin in conjunction with the accordion or saxophone to create some rock music. I really appreciated their style and their approach until they got a little too experimental for my taste.

enchiladas con mole poblano

mole poblano is a rich chocolaty sauce

the classic restaurant ambience

chile en nogada

another Puebla specialty, it is a chile poblano with a meat filling, doused in a sweet, creamy sauce

Before we returned to the bus station for our two hour ride to Mexico City, it was one more moment of music at the churrería. We opted for the table not immediately in front of the singer and his guitar. He sang and strummed, with more interest in his cigarette break than his music.