Guanajuato

After an early morning bus ride, I was rewarded with a wonderful day in Guanajuato, a city that boasts Spanish colonial architecture of the 1500s, a university known for its arts programs and the Festival Internacional Cervantino in October. The well preserved city was designated a Unesco World Heritage site in 1988.

Settled in 1559 due to the silver and gold deposits, the area is a maze of tunnels and narrow cobble stone streets. The colonial barons reaping the wealth of the mines built beautiful mansions, churches and theaters that still populate Guanajuato. The city and the surrounding areas were central to the start of the Mexican independence movement, with rebel leaders Miguel Hidalgo and Ignacio Allende in nearby Dolores and San Miguel beginning the war for independence in 1810. Almost 200 years later in 2000, Vicente Fox won the Mexican presidency under the PAN (Partido Accion Nacional), breaking the 70 year reign of the PRI (Partido Revolucionario Institucional). Prior to his presidency, Fox was governor of the state of Guanajuato.

City scenes of Guanajuato

La Catrina is an image made popular by Jose Guadalupe Posada in the early 1900s. It is a common image used during Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) on November 1 and 2.

Guanajuato is home to three main theaters. Teatro Juarez was inaugurated in the early 1900s during the dictatorship of Porfirio Diaz. His French tastes reflect the lavish interior and the imposing exterior. The Teatro Principal and Teatro Cervantes are host to performances during the Cervantino festival in October.

El Museo Iconografico del Quijote is an excellent collection of a variety of images of the literary figure Don Quixote de la Mancha.

On my way to the University of Guanajuato, I passed a print of a Guayasamin painting. I was reminded of his museum in Quito, Ecuador that I visited a few years ago.

La Universidad de Guanajuato is considered one of Mexico's best schools for music, theater and law.

Finally, I could not have been in Guanajuato without visiting the birthplace of Diego Rivera, which has been converted into a museum. Diego Rivera and his twin were born in this house in 1886 and lived here until he was six when his family moved to Mexico City. The first floor is a collection of the family's furniture and antiques while and second and third floors house a few of Rivera's portraits and sketches and temporary exhibitions.

My Connection to Teaching

For a brief moment this afternoon I reconnected with former students via Skype. It is hard to say who was more entertained. I want to thank them for providing ample moments of laughter, asking informative questions (some more than others) and reminding me of the reasons to teach. As most of them are seniors, I wish them muy buena suerte después de su tiempo en Mt. Lebanon.

Sights and Sounds of Sunday

I almost joined the 5K runners who were crossing the finish line at the park near my apartment. The active runners finished their morning run beside the vendors of fried foods, the numerous dogs romping in the grass, and the basketball players fighting for the rebounds.

I traded the sounds of the park in Portales for the ranchero notes of the live band in Coyoacán in the afternoon. The septuagenarians swayed in couples and alone in the corner of the park oblivious to the people of all ages with Mexican soccer jerseys on trying to catch a glimpse of the Mexico vs. Chile game that was on every radio and television set in the neighborhood. When the skies opened to afternoon thundershowers, I escaped to a café to read, interrupted only by the sight of two Mexican midget men joining me in the coffee shop.

Efficiency

This morning as I revised and reprinted the documents that the MCC contracted lawyer sent to us regarding immigration processes for incoming workers this fall, I marveled that the sheer inefficiency of this professional. Granted, in Mexico notaries have more legal power than lawyers; however it is no excuse for lack of organization. On Tuesday morning, Abogado (Lawyer) Lorenzo and I sat together clicking every link on the Mexican Immigration website in search of yet another form that we needed to complete. This was a form and website on which he recently training. After five minutes, we found the form only to discover that a certain organizational document was not on file. To his defense, it is quite impressive the amount of paper work that is required to keep the offices of the Mexican bureaucracy oiled and running.

With this key document not on file and the our legal representative about to take a transatlantic flight, not to return for three months, the situation of urgency and anxiety was forced upon us. So this morning, instead of having a calm last day in Mexico before his evening flight, Ricardo, an already anxious person, rushed to the office to sign papers and provide the required documentation. I tried to have everything printed and ready for him to sign; however, when the lawyer arrived I was told to change some of the wording on five documents that he send to us less than an hour ago. I am sure the saga will continue.

Efficiency.

Happy Mother’s Day

The flower sellers were busy this morning at the market. Sunflowers, lilies, daisies, roses and every other kind of flower crowded the metro on my way to the Insurgentes stop on the pink line. Mother’s Day in Mexico is tomorrow, but my thoughts were with my Mom and family members this morning as I ran through the market and metro and they ran in Pittsburgh’s Race for the Cure.

I spent the day at the antiques market on Calle Obregon in the Condesa area of the city. I meandered through stalls of jewelry, books (Mom, I spotted …and the Ladies of the Club!), sunglasses, old telephones, glassware and of course I couldn’t resist rifling through the Coke memorabilia. There were artisans of various strips and numerous paintings to admire. I was able to escape the stalls to the Centro de Cultura Casa de Lamm which was short on art, but the architecture was worth the detour. By 5pm, as the vendors began to gather their wares, the sun defeated me, and I retreated to a café to read and refresh myself for the journey home.

Guadalupe, Mexico’s Patron Saint

It is difficult to feel spiritual when every vender is trying to make a peso or two from the sacred image of La Virgen de Guadalupe. As one of the most visited Catholic shrines in 2009, I am sure that the venders are quite grateful to La Virgen, especially during the first weeks of December when more than 6 million people visit the shrine each year. The streets leading to the Basilica complex are lined with the image of La Virgen attached to everything from candles to T shirts to key chains. My favorite, which I almost bought for its epitome of gaudiness, was the icon covered in glitter, under glass that became a lamp, lit up by one large, colored Christmas bulb.

I was much more inclined to revere the patron saint of Mexico in December when I hiked to the Sanctuario in Olinalá for early mass at 5am; however, despite the seemingly commercialization of the place, masses of Mexicans and mere observers flock to the sacred area to venerate the miracle that happened more than 400 years ago.

Believers tell a variation of the story that on 9 December 1531, Juan Diego, an indigenous Christian convert, stood on the Cerro del Tepeyac, where the Capilla del Cerrito now stands, and first witnessed a beautiful lady with a blue mantle trimmed in gold. She told him to tell the bishop that he had seen the Virgin Mary and that she wanted a shrine built in her honor. The bishop did not believe him and asked that the lady provide a miracle. Juan Diego returned to the hill and had the same vision several more times. On 12 December, her fourth appearance to Juan Diego, she asked him to gather flowers. Despite being winter, there were roses for him to gather. When Juan Diego presented the roses to the bishop, the image of la Virgen de Guadalupe was miraculously emblazoned on his cloak.

And with that miracle, a cult following developed around the site of the Virgin Mary’s appearance to Juan Diego. Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, named after a Spanish manifestation of the Virgin, received credit for numerous miracles which greatly facilitated the acceptance of Catholicism by Mexicans. In 1737 la Virgen de Guadalupe was declared patron of Mexico and in the early 1900s celestial patron of Latin America and empress of the Americas.

The new Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe is a large, modern structure that lacks the classic cathedral characteristics. It was built in the 1970s beside the original Basilica.

Built in the 1700s, the original Basilica was slowing sinking with the overwhelming number of visitors and pilgrims which prompted the construction of the new Basilica. I can attest to the feeling of walking uphill as I entered the building.

The original Basilica has beautiful paintings throughout the church.

Juan Diego, who was canonized in 2002 by Pope John Paul II, is buried beside la Capilla de Indios.

On the way to the Capilla del Cerrito (Hill Chapel), I passed the Templo del Pocito, built in 1787 to commemorate the miraculous appearance of a spring where the Virgen de Guadalupe had stood. The blue tiled cupolas are quite unique.

The gardens are well maintained, after all, she did make the roses appear mid winter.

A view of the Capilla del Cerrito, where Juan Diego had his vision.

The juxtaposition of the original and modern Basilica.

Capilla del Cerrito

In the Capilla del Cerrito, the Virgen de Guadalupe is predominantly revered on the center wall. The traditional Jesus and crucifix is relegated to one of the side walls. The paintings that line the other walls depict the miracle of 1531.

I walked down the other side of the hill. The statues show the miracle of Juan Diego and the patron saint.

Many are resting and finding shade from the heat and sun.

Highlights from Team Retreat

I was in good company for this return overnight trip to Olinala on Thursday. The MCC Mexico team, a diverse and at times eccentric group, was gathering in Olinala for our Spring retreat. The Friesen-Pankratz family did an outstanding job of organizing our two days together. There were numerous moments of laughter and fun. A thank you to the team that provides wonderful memories and stories.

Friday afternoon - No visit to Olinala is complete without a stop (or two) to the Paleteria.

Friday afternoon - In Zacango with Bruce and Jaime, there is no lack of animals.

Friday evening - ¨Dale, Dale, Dale,¨ we sang as Ziko took his first swings at the piñata.

Friday evening - Piñatas are a must for any birthday celebration.

Friday evening - To finish the day, the kids roasted marshmallows, and we (Jaime, Natalie and I) sang songs around the campfire. Roasting marshmallows was a new activities for the kids of Zacango. Another highlight for the kids was throwing chispas (small sparklers) into the fire or at each other.

Saturday morning - We spent the morning at the Sanctuario (Sanctuary) in a time of devotion and song.

Saturday afternoon - This is what we consider the fancy restaurant in Olinala. The shade provided a much needed escape from the oppressive heat and sun of Olinala.

Saturday afternoon - We are in the process of making blanket squares for a baby comforter for Marion and Ricardo who are expecting in July.

Saturday afternoon - In celebration of the birthdays on the team. Natalie´s birthday was one of many that we celebrated.

Saturday evening - To end our retreat we feasted on pizza.

Saturday evening - Most of the team traveled home together on the Saturday night bus. Natalie and I spent another day exploring the pueblo (town) and recuperating.