Did Harrison walk these grounds?

Harrison William Shepherd, the lead character of Barbara Kingsolver’s new novel The Lacuna figured prominently into the week long visit of my parents in Mexico City. In the novel, Harrison’s journal entries detail his work with Diego Rivera, mixing plaster for the Mexican muralist, eventually becoming a cook for the Diego and Frida household in Coyoacán. Intimate letters reveal the lifelong friendship between Harrison and Frida Kahlo, which also leads him into the employ of Leon Trotsky, who is killed in 1940 after several assassination attempts

Having thoroughly enjoyed the novel, my parents and I retraced his steps with Diego, Frida and Trotsky. We spotted the historical figures in Diego’s National Palace mural and those in the Palacio de Bellas Artes. We walked the Alameda, toured Diego’s studio in San Angel and soaked in the ambiance of Coyoacán. The marked contrast of vibrancy and energy of Frida’s Blue House and the Trotsky House five or six blocks apart gave way to musing on the political turmoil of the 40s and the persecution of Stalin oceans and countries away.

In faithfulness to the pursuit of all things Frida and Diego, we visited the Museum of Modern Art in Chapultepec Park which is home to the famous Las Dos Fridas, along with others of Rivera, Orozco and Siquieros, a conspirator in a failed assassination attempt of Trotsky. The Secretary of Education building, home to hundreds of Diego’s murals that praise the campesino (farmer) and trabajador (worker) of Mexico, and the fateful location where Frida first met Diego, completed our tour.

Calle 13

I would not consider myself a reggaeton fan (nor a music critic), but after watching Calle 13 Sin Mapa, a documentary shown through the Ambulante 2010: Gira de documentales film festival in Mexico City, I am now more inclined to listen to this Grammy and Latin Grammy winning Puerto Rican duo. Taking stage names of Residente and Visitante, the two have tried to create their own unique style of reggaeton infusing a range of musical styles to a largely hip hop beat.

The documentary follows the two on their quest to discover the “real” people and culture of Latin America, which leads them to remote areas of Peru, Colombia and Venezuela. There is little analysis to the continual dismissive comments of all things US/Canada and praise of all things indigenous. And while it is hard to take them too seriously, I found the movie highly entertaining. The scenes of Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca along with the Amazon wanderings brought back wonderful memories of some previous travels.

Patience Pays Off

We were back at the Olinalá Municipal building to speak with la Presidenta. This time, learning from experience, we had an appointment for 2pm. Maybe because it was Friday or maybe because making an appointment really doesn’t matter, we waited another hour to have an audience with her.

Bruce spoke about the efforts related to the watershed management process in Zacango, and I filled in where his Spanish failed him. At our last meeting she asked us to get a quote of how much internet would cost, and based on our research, we had a ready answer for her. Unfortunately, her response was, “Come back Monday. I need to collaborate with my accountants to see to what extent I can support you.”

Not to be deterred, we took advantage of the time to describe some of the activities happening in Zacango, one of which is the community newspaper. On Friday, January 29, Zacango held a successful newspaper launch party. To date, 60 copies of the newspaper have been distributed to community members in Zacango, visitors to the community and businesses in Olinalá, with the hope that they will advertise in next month’s edition.

The Zacango newspaper office has also started a Zacango history project. The younger students (ages 8 to 15) will interview their grandparents about life when they were young and life in Zacango. The older students have started a digital archive of Zacango photos and will also be working on developing a monthly column on the history of Zacango.

Presidenta Luisa and Luis

We returned to the hot sun and air with the hope that Monday would bring us good news and the assurance from Luisa that she would have an answer – no need to wait.

There we were again. Luis, Zoilo, Saturnino and I were back at the Presidency, Monday morning at 10am. My confidence of a quick meeting and answer was soon gone. It was all too familiar, we would wait. However, this time, after an hour, our patience rewarded us with an answer. Zacango would receive full support for the installation of internet.

The Making of a Tinaco

On Saturday I participated (watched more then anything) in the process of building a tinaco (water cistern) with a group of about 14 men in Chiaucingo, a community 15 minutes from Olinala. This is one of the appropriate technologies that MCC has implemented in the region.

The process is a two day event: Day one is the assembly of the mold for the floor and the walls; Day 2 is the placement of the roof. Typically, MCC works with the group to build one, then the trained group, who are well versed in construction, build the rest.

The ground level, the mold is ready to be assembled.

All of the mold pieces are numbered for easy assembly.

Assembling the outside mold by securing the fastener.

The last piece of the outside mold is in two parts to facilitate easy assess to the inside.

Learning how to place the metal fencing for the floor.

Reinforcement for the floor.

Metal fencing is placed for the floor and walls.

Clipping the fencing that is too high.

Pouring the cement floor.

They have to mix their own cement - cement, fester (a sealer), gravel, sand and water.

Everyone has their role in the cement mixing process.

By the end of the day they were pretty efficient.

Bucket by bucket, the cement floor is poured.

Intently watching the process.

Passing the cement needed for the floor.

Manuel is training him how to use the level for the floor.

The last piece of the outside mold is placed and secured.

With a level and metal piece in the middle as a guide, the cement floor is leveled.

Hanging on the metal fencing on the side to ensure a floor without footprints.

Enjoying chicken at 9:00am and waiting for the floor to dry.

The breakfast dishes not yet clean, the preparation for lunch begins.

Preparing the mole for lunch after the walls are poured.

After a two hour break, the floor is suffieciently dry to be able to place the inside mold.

Assembling the inside mold. All the pieces are numbered with arrows so there is no confusion.

A solution is painted on to the molds so that the cement does not stick to the molds. It makes it easier to remove the molds at the end.

Assembling the inside mold.

It is really important that all of the ganchos (fasteners) are secured on the mold so that it does not move when the cement is poured.

Once the inside mold is assembled, they move the mold so that the walls were uniform.

Metal bars, which will be removed, are used to reinforce for the mold for when the cement walls are poured.

The metal bars reinforce the mold as the cement poured for the walls could move the mold.

Touch ups on the floor so that it is smooth when everything is completely dry.

Ready to pour the cement for the walls.

On day 2, the inside mold is removed.

Inspecting their good work.

The mold is removed and the walls are cleaned and sealed to prevent future leakage.

The last step - the roof of the tinaco. The Coke can marks the place for the roof water to enter. The cistern will be ready for use in about a week.