La Catedral

This morning I awoke at 7 to the sounds of people singing a slow, dirge like hymn. I went to the front windows to watch the procession that had stopped briefly in front of my apartment. About 20 to 30 people from a surrounding community formed two lines for the procession that ended with the two robed priests carrying an icon and cross. Many of the people carried a stock of corn. I assume that the community was walking to the cathedral to offer thanks or receive a blessing for the upcoming corn harvest.

While it seems there are frequent processions for a variety of reasons, this week begins the celebrations for Las Fiestas Patronales the Celebrations for the Patron Saint of Olinalá, which I think is Saint Francis of Asisi. I understand the week will be full of parades, celebratory masses, not much work and general merriment, culminating in a big party and dance on October 3. The big market day is usually Sunday, but because of the feria, stalls will be set up all week.

Inspired by the early procession, I made my own procession into the cathedral for 12:00 mass and was amazed at the beauty of the church. Outside, rows of multicolored papel picado are strung from the surrounding fence to the church, inviting people inside. Inside, the church walls are intricately painted in the style of the lacquer work of the area. Strings of bright yellow marigolds are attached to the side walls reaching up to the center of the building. The icons and statues in the front are draped with marigold wreaths. Perhaps the color and decoration is unique to the approaching festivals, but the church exuded joy and life.

Mass is celebrated at 9:30, 12:00 and 6:00 in the evening. I have yet to attend a 9:30 mass, but the afternoon and evening masses are well attended with many people standing for lack of pew space. I have heard there is an evangelical church in the area, but Catholicism is by far the predominate religion.

This morning I hummed along to songs with guitar accompaniment and listened to the priest talk about the seven sacraments and the upcoming confirmation this weekend. I haven’t been to many Catholic services, but I was struck that the morning message was used as a teaching lesson about the Church structure and rites of passage – quite helpful for one not versed in the rituals.

Olinala's next top model II

I am waking up this morning with stiff curls still in my hair from the all the hairspray, black outlined eyes from the eyeliner that I couldn’t rub off, and a pile of bracelets, earrings and fake nails on the kitchen bar; the remains of my stunning beauty from my day as a model.

My modeling career started yesterday at 2 in the afternoon and ended at midnight. It included lots of aerosol hairspray, several hours without electricity, a ladder and thoughts of, “Is this really my life?”

Liz told me to be at the beauty school, a block from my apartment, by 2 so that she would have enough time for everything. With the sun ablaze outside, I entered into a hive of energy and activity with models in various stages of make up and hairstyles. There were easily 30 women and girls buzzing around the small room. The director, Norma, sat behind a desk finalizing the evening’s program and calling out how much time the stylists had to finish their work. The teacher, Lizbeth, monitored the ten or so work stations offering advice and answering questions. The stylists arranged hair and applied makeup in a manner that would never look natural. The models either sat patiently during their transformation or hovered around the others, eating the taquitos provided for everyone, comparing styles and offering commentary.

I sat in a chair near the door that gave me a good vantage point to survey all of the activity as I waited my turn. As I sweated profusely in the heat and inhaled more aerosol then is healthy in a lifetime, I murmured appreciatively at the intricate pedicures and manicures. I assured the girl next to me that indeed adding a puff of fake hair on top of her head and long extensions in the back was a great idea. I described my outfit and listened to the descriptions of the others.

As I was waiting for almost two hours, several of the girls began to take interest in me as to who am I and what I am doing in Olinalá. I fielded all sorts of questions and shocked them with the fact that yes, I am 30 (so nice of them to think that I’m younger!); no, I don’t have any children; and no, I don’t have a boyfriend or husband here or in the States. Of the three, it’s hard to say what they found most surprising.

When Liz finished the makeup and hair of her first model, I left the sweaty chair for my new station in the back corner of the room feeling nothing like a model. The first thing she asked was, “Can I cut a few bangs?” I asked a few questions, and then remembered that this was her graduation and her final project. Snip. Snip. Out came the rollers for curls, more hairspray, a few well placed braids so that extensions could be added. That’s right, in a mix of Goldilocks and Rapunzel, I had long, curly hair attached in a shade of blonde not even close to mine.

As we waited for my curls to set, all of the makeup supplies appeared. While I can count on one hand the number of times that I’ve worn makeup in my life, I thought I handled the painting pretty well, except for the eyes. The eyeliner didn’t cause too many tears nor the eyelash curler. It was the long fake eyelashes that did me in as the application glue burned. The price of beauty I suppose.

By 6, the stylists were furiously applying the finishing touches as they had to prepare themselves to go to mass at 7 before the fashion show. About now is also when the electricity went, though only the lightening and threat of rain give any clue as to a reason for se fue la luz. With the hair and makeup finished and the stylists gone, all of the models were left in the dark to chatter nervously about the show and comment on the different styles. I should add that the last part of my preparation was that Liz glued glittering blue nails on my short fingernails. I can handle long nails, but not inch long additions. I was left useless, even to the simplest task of going to the bathroom, which took me 15 minutes because I couldn’t figure out how to unbutton my shorts without ripping off a nail.

Around 8, we the models, with dresses and accessories in tow, walked a block to the town auditorium, which is really a large covered cement area beside the zócalo, the town square. Sharing six hours together of primping and preening created a bond between all of us. So the nervous chatter and laugher heightened as we saw the assembled catwalk and waited for the stylists still at mass. And all this was in the dark as the electricity was still out.

Only when people began to gather and the stylists arrived did the electricity return, as if it knew that the show would provide enough drama. Time to put on my costume, which is really the best way to describe it. Liz named the design I modeled Diosa de la anochecer, goddess of the dusk. As my nails left me useless, Liz had to undress and dress me, put on my shoes and put on my huge earrings and bracelets. Liz’s other model, who was wearing a design that represents Olinalá, thought it would be a good idea to spray our arms and legs (and my stomach as I am wearing next to nothing) with some more aerosol hairspray – so we will shine on the catwalk. She told me not to tell the other models.

As all of the models and the designs are coming together, I finally witness the reality of all of the descriptions that I was given throughout the day of the different dresses. We were all admiring each other, and I complemented each one on the creativity of the outfits. I thought the design using recycled paper was especially progressive. My outfit and hair received plenty of commentary, including the huge headgear, as if I wasn’t tall enough already.

With the dance music blaring and most of the town in the seats surrounding the raised runway, the show began. As we lined up, I realized that I was to be the last model of the first round. Earlier, I wrote that the day included a ladder, and here is why. The runway was a basic T shape, but raised off the ground at least 5 feet. What better way to get the platform then use a ladder?! It’s tough, but try to picture this: me, in heels, long useless fingernails, sequined bra and underwear, large head gear, don’t forget the long train of material, climbing a ladder. Makes me laugh every time.

When it was my turn, I struggled up the ladder, sashayed my way down the runway, turned, tried to maneuver the unwieldy long train and attempted to remember to stick out my chest and smile. My walk was slightly thrown off by a low hanging chain that I didn’t see and caught my headgear ever so slightly, but I recovered. Like all of the models, there were plenty of catcalls, applause and whistles. I’d say it was a valiant first attempt at modeling, though I don’t see it as a future career path.

After the first round of models, there was an interlude that included a dance and lip sync performance from one of the graduating stylist to a song about people looking at me because they are jealous – very appropriate for the occasion of a fashion show. I enjoyed the second half of the show much more as I watched the remaining 14 models strut their stuff.

At the end, a lá Miss America pageant, we paraded around the room as video and pictures were taken. I definitely had pictures taken with randoms, though thankfully no creepy old men, as well as some of the other models. After spending time in preparation for the event with Liz and hearing about her family, I was glad to meet all of them in celebration of her graduation. Then, continuing in the spirit of fantasy, with the strike of midnight, I was finally able to change out of my costume and feel normal again as I walked home.

It was an interesting experience; one that I never thought I would be a part of in my life. I am happy for Liz and the other women who graduated as they are creative and talented individuals. I am happy to be a part of an experience with the women of the town. I am very happy that my modeling career is over.

Changes

One week in Olinalá and the reality changes.

On the home front, I found out last Sunday evening that in the coming months I will be on the search for a new home. In December I will have to vacate my lovely second floor apartment that has plenty of sunlight and an outdoor patio that I have enjoyed morning and evening reading and reflection. Barely just settling in to living here, the daughter of the owner of the apartment visited with the news that her uncle was returning from the States in December and would need the apartment until April. As is common in the state of Guerrero and much of Mexico, many people have relatives in the States who send remittances back to family to help with living expenses and the ultimate dream of building a house. Walking the streets, one can see houses in various stages of construction awaiting more money to finish the next part. The hope is that when the house is built, the relatives from the States will return home.

On the work front, there will be more transitions. The Dyrst family who has been here for three years has decided to return to the States in early November. Much of their work has focused on the construction of appropriate technology of dry latrines and cisterns. I have spent much of the week learning about the process and work as well as trying to soak up the wealth of information that they know about Olinalá.

With their departure, our team is much smaller – the Friesen-Pankratz family, living in Zacango, and Manuel Vazquez, a national worker from the state of Morelos, who stays in Olinalá for 10-15 days then returns home for a few days rest. As I have written in the past, much of the MCC work in the area is related to water issues. Part of the team has been realizing the goals of Plan 500, whose goals included the construction of 200 latrines, 200 cisterns and 100 family gardens. We are currently in a time of evaluation and reflection on the impact of this program in the communities. In the next month, we will conduct an evaluation to capture the stories of the community and to measure the effects and impact of the project on the entire community, those who received the technology as well as those who did not.

In Zacango, Bruce and Jaime have begun several education programs arising from the articulated need from the community. Jaime teaches adult literacy classes for women and English classes for children. Bruce is helping with the English classes as well as computer classes. In the summer, they taught science related classes through the planting of a community garden for the children since they were out of school. The education emphasis is part of a process to educate and build capacity around water and environment related issues. As Bruce has much experience in watershed management, we were part of the community meeting on Friday to present the process of watershed management to the community.

A watershed management plan is a process that is community driven and brings all the stakeholders to the table to develop and implement a plan. It is a process that requires both future visioning and participatory community involvement. We are working to make some contacts with one or two national organizations in the area that also working in communities to develop a watershed management plan.

Olinala's next top model

A Christian role model? A model for development theory? You might think that is what I’m providing here, but on Saturday night I will be a fashion model. That’s right, I’ll be walking a fashion runway.

Liz, a 20 something who has lived in Olinalá with her family her whole life, has been studying estética (beauty school) for the last year. As is typical with school and courses throughout Mexico, there is a clausura (closing ceremony) to end the year or class. She has designed two outfits that are the culmination of her study.

And how did I get involved? Her one model was just hired DF and unable to get the weekend off. The obvious next best replacement is the new gringa in town. And, yes, I am most definitely the tallest of the 28 models in the show – then add the heels.

My first practice was Sunday evening. We learned how to walk. I did not know that I was to bring a pair of high heels nor do I own a pair, so I had to borrow a pair of shoes from another woman – and these were her everyday shoes. The walk: cross your feet as you step, which will make you sway your hips; strike a pose by shifting your weight from left hip to right hip; two steps back; turn and walk. We practiced together walking in a straight line, all ten or so of us, the youngest being no older than 13 maybe younger. Then, the choreography which included a zigzag movement in a square area and striking poses at various points. At the end of practice, Liz definitely told me to practice at home and definitely swing your hips more!

Now for the actual outfit that I’ll be modeling. When I first agreed to this, I envisioned a nice 4H dress. I could not have been further from reality. Liz designed the outfit after looking at various fashion magazines; however, she has had various people help with the actual sewing. I will be wearing a bra covered in blue sequins. It used to have strings of beads hanging down the front, but at the first fitting, she thought it would look better without. With the bra top, I will be wearing spandex boy cut underwear. So much for modesty. Pinned to the butt will be a long train of bunched material. Wow.

Yesterday’s practice included lots of hip swaying, posing, and walking in a line with all the other models. We also practiced our posture: head up, chin up, smile, and stick out that nonexistent chest of mine. Tonight’s practice will include more of the same I am sure.

Since this is the final project for the class, Liz has to display all of the skills that she has learned. Tonight after the practice, I will have a pedicure where at the end I will have blue or silver colored toenails. The manicure will come in the next day or two. And I can only imagine what my make up and hair will look like on Saturday. I write this all because if I post pictures I want you to be able to recognize me, which might be difficult without this description.

Saturday will be my debut in to fashion and to Olinalá. Perhaps I missed my calling.

Bienvenidos a Olinala

I arrived to a rainy and cool Mexico City on the eve of Independence Day. I let the true Mexicans give the Grito “Viva Mexico” at 11:00 pm without me, but I was able to see a few fireworks in celebration along with the red, green and white papel picado that was strung up along balconies.

There was not much exploration of Mexico City as I was thrust head first into orientation with the MCC Mexico Country Representatives Marion Meyer and Ricardo Torres. Ricardo and Marion have a wealth of experience in Latin America and have more than ten years of experience working for MCC in a variety of capacities. It was a valuable experience to learn their impressions of life and work in Mexico and to discuss development theory, politics and language and cultural differences in Latin America.

With three days of orientation in Mexico City and a windy 11 hours (should have been 8 hours) overnight bus ride, I stepped off the bus in Olinalá. Through blurry eyes due to fitful sleep we found Meredith, an MCC worker, who drove us through the still dark streets of the town I will call home for the next 11 months.

My second floor apartment is great – lots of windows, open space and a covered back porch overlooking a variety of fruit tress that I hope to take advantage of. I will have the pleasure of being in the center of the action with the zócalo, the town square, a block away.

Still without coffee, I met the MCC team working in Guerrero. Martin and Liz Dyrst and their two school age boys have been living in Olinalá for almost three years and will be transitioning back to the States in April. They have been working on the building projects in the communities. Bruce and Jaime Friesen-Pankratz and their three young children have been living in Zacango, a community about ten minutes by vehicle from Olinalá, for almost a year. They have several education initiatives and watershed management projects that are their priorities. Each family has integrated into the community in multiple ways, and I am excited about future discussions and work. The morning was a time for introductions as well as a time for farewells, as Meridith Maynard, who has been living and working in Olinalá for a year and a half, left today.

Work and Hope

In April of 2008, I earned my Masters in International Development from the University of Pittsburgh. This degree along with seven years of experience teaching Spanish at Mt. Lebanon High School and various international travel and service experiences from the Caribbean to Southeast Asia is the preparation that I bring to my new work in Olinalá, Guerrero, Mexico with Mennonite Central Committee (MCC).

For more than 88 years MCC, as part of the Mennonite and Brethern in Chirst church family, has been working among people suffering from poverty, conflict, oppression and natural disaster; building relationships that are mutually transformative; and striving for peace, justice and dignity of all people. Currently MCC workers serve in 53 countries in relief, community development and peace work.

MCC first began work in Mexico in the 60s and 70s, but it wasn’t until 1985, in collaboration with the colony Mennonites in Northern Mexico and the Mennonite churches in Mexico City, that MCC returned permanently to provide aid and reconstruction assistance in the state of Jalisco to those affected by the earthquake of 1985. Upon finishing that project, MCC started work in the region “La Montaña” in the state of Guerrero, one of the poorest areas of the country on the Pacific coast, in 1992. In 1994, in answer to the conflict and violence that began with the Zapatista uprising, MCC began peace work in the state of Chiapas. From these beginnings MCC Mexico now has a presence in the states of Guerrero, Chiapas, Morelos and Mexico with 15 people working in the areas of peace, education, community development and disaster relief.

The community development work in Guerrero centers on appropriate technology, water conservation and agriculture. Based in the town of Olinalá, a team of seven people work in the town and in ten surrounding communities to empower and transform communities as much of the work requires community participation and cooperation. One of the hallmarks of the MCC work in the area is the technology for the construction of cisterns, a base for the capture of water and rain water contributing to the alleviation of water scarcity during the dry season. The workers provide the technical support to build the cisterns and dry latrines requiring cooperation and collective work from the community for the project to come to fruition. Currently, MCC is developing Plan 500 with the goal of building 200 cisterns, 200 latrines and establishing 100 family gardens taking advantage of collected water. The plan serves 300 families, a majority of who are indigenous and from marginalized communities.

MCC also provides credit to farmers in various communities for the construction of infrastructure such as greenhouses and appropriate agricultural techniques. A highlight of the technical assistance in the agricultural sector has been the introduction of grasses that act as a living barrier to reduce soil erosion and the establishment of family gardens.

Guerrero is an area that has very limited involvement with NGOs as there simply are not many development organizations working in the area. For this reason, MCC operates and coordinates its own projects and work in the area which makes this program unique. I will be coordinating the efforts of MCC in Guerrero that I have outlined above and networking with possible future partner organizations that can give this program a stronger national base and long-term sustainability.