Teotihuacán

This morning we left Mexico City, which was built on top of Tenochtitlán the center of the universe in Aztec belief, to explore one of Mexico’s biggest ancient cities and the capital of the Aztecs. As the bus crawled through the heavy traffic north of the city, the reminder of a conquered empire reverberated through the thousands of drab concrete block houses that enveloped the hillsides.

As one of the largest pre-Hispanic empires, the Aztecs’ Teotihuacán developed and flourished from the 1^st century through the 8^th century before its eventual collapse due to social and economic factors. Our exploration of the ruins began with an easy walk around La Ciudadela (the Citadel) believed to have been the residence of the supreme ruler. With many pyramid structures in various stages of renovation surrounding the larger main pyramid in the center, where one can only imagine what this great city once was.

The main road that leads to the Pyramid of the Sun, the world’s third largest pyramid, and the Pyramid of the Moon, a smaller but no less impressive structure, is called Calzada de los Muertos (Avenue of the Dead). With an unforgiving sun overhead, the avenue’s name held its meaning as we ascended and descended the periodic stairs on our way to the Pyramid of the Sun looming in the distance. Tiring of the stairs, I once opted to crawl through a narrow canal that spat me out on the other side with aching knees.

Avenue of the Dead

My progression through the canal. My flexibility isn´t what it used to be.

After the deceptively long walk, we arrived at the Pyramid of the Sun, tired, but ready to climb the 248 stairs. The pyramid was built around AD 100 from three million tons of stone without the use of metal tools, pack animals or the wheel. It is imposing (222 meters long on each side of the base), if not frightfully tall (over 70 meters), yet taken in stages, we were rewarded with impressive views of the surrounding area despite the haze. After a walk around the top of the pyramid to help us catch our breath, we began our descent passing some people who preferred to descend backwards due to the steep steps.

Pyramid of the Moon (left) and Pyramid of the Sun (right)

Pyramid of the Sun

Worth the climb of 248 steep steps

While the Pyramid of the Sun is the tallest, the views from the top of the Pyramid of the Moon, built around AD 300, were worth the climb despite the fatigue. The climb was shorter and steeper. Positioned at the end of the Avenue of the Dead, the ancient city lies at your feet offering a complete view of the steps we would have to retrace on the treeless Avenue of the Dead.

Pyramid of the Moon was a lot steeper.

The city at our feet.